On Monday, H and I returned from a near week-long vacation to Southern California, an area neither of us had been before. What we found were bright, comfortable days, local, delicious food, and so much beauty in this part of the country. We spent most of our time soaking up the refreshing salt air, and did not eat a single meal indoors. I received recommendations from several locals in the area, and planned our stay based on those – we ended up loving everything! I really feel as though we did this trip right. I’m sharing the details of our travels and hope it might inspire your own trip to the Golden Coast!
Day 1
Beverly Hills
We had an early direct flight from BNA in Nashville to LAX in Los Angeles, which made travel smooth and easy. We arrived around 10 a.m. and were greeted by the sunny, temperate weather, crisp and welcome especially coming from Nashville’s summer heat and humidity. We got a ride to the Waldorf Astoria of Beverly Hills and checked in. Our room wasn’t quite ready, so we rode the elevator up for lunch at The Rooftop by JG and were immediately stunned by the gorgeous panoramic views of Beverly Hills and Hollywood. This was the perfect introduction to LA!
After lunch, we walked to Rodeo Drive, an upscale, attractive shopping area. Then, we made our way through Beverly Gardens Park, and on the way back stopped to see Spadena, or The Witch’s, House, which looked to be right out of a fairy tale.
Upon returning to the hotel, our room was ready, with a private balcony and more rolling views of the area. We changed into swimsuits and went back up to the roof for a swim in the pool and soak in the hot tub – an especially satisfying thing to do after a day of travel, and it was a bit windy and cool.
After showering, the hotel’s driver (yes, there’s a car service!) gave us a little tour of nearby streets and homes in Beverly Hills – pointing out where some famous figures lived, such as Lucille Ball and Jimmy Stewart – and dropped us at the iconic Beverly Hills Hotel so we could look around. I had been hoping to have lunch at the Polo Lounge, but did not make a reservation in time (I’d love to go next time; must secure a reservation a few weeks in advance). Back at our hotel, we dined downstairs on the patio of Jean-Georges and had a very relaxing evening. It cools down significantly at night, so be sure pack some sweaters and pants.
Day 2
Santa Barbara/Solvang/Los Olivos
On this morning, we took the Coast Starlight train from LA (the Van Nuys station, which is small and easy to get to) to Santa Barbara. We sat in the observation car on the second level, which is the place to be. The first hour or so, we didn’t see much, but for the second half of the ride, the train took us right in front of the ocean with sweeping views of the coast, surfers, and people waving as we went by. It was an incredible ride.
We stepped off the train into vibrant sunshine, flowers, the ideal temperature, charming white buildings, and mountains as the backdrop. I fell in love with Santa Barbara immediately. In such a dazzling setting, we decided to walk, with luggage and all (thank goodness for 360-degree suitcase wheels!), to our hotel. Santa Barbara is a laidback place, and it wasn’t very crowded, so this was doable. We checked in at the Hilton Santa Barbara Beachfront Resort and loved our room with a view of the water. We sat down on the patio of The Set for lunch, and then went to pick up our rental car for the next two days.
Once in our car, we drove 45 minutes (a beautiful drive through the mountains) to the little Danish town of Solvang, a cute place to walk around and pop in shops. They were even having a farmers’ market with some of the prettiest fresh flowers. From there, we drove just a little farther to Los Olivos, a small and charming community with some of the best wine tasting. Note that many of the tasting shops close at 5 p.m. and we arrived a little after 5. However, we spotted Four Brothers Wine Co. which was staying open until 7 p.m. We received a friendly greeting by one of the four and snagged a seat in their lovely garden courtyard. As with Santa Barbara, there weren’t many folks around in Los Olivos, which made for a peaceful and pleasant late afternoon. We did the wine tasting at Four Brothers and received four wines to try – and even a fifth since they weren’t very busy. It was fun and memorable.
We drove back and went straight to Bettina for dinner, and everything we ate was quite tasty. After, we ended the night with ice cream at Rori’s Creamery, conveniently located right next to Bettina. I had a scoop of the vegan Triple Berry – yum!
Day 3
Santa Barbara/Montecito
This day was my favorite! I will treasure it always. We woke up to another breathtaking day – nothing but sunshine and in the upper 60s. We rented bikes at our hotel and biked along Shoreline Park, which has a path that follows the coast, and then through State Street in Santa Barbara, which transformed into a pedestrian (and bike-friendly) walkway during the pandemic – no cars allowed! We loved stopping in a few shops and simply biking and seeing all the sights. I was very much enjoying Santa Barbara’s easygoing way of life; it was just such a delightful morning and place to be and explore. The ride filled us with good spirits and gratitude.
The day only got better from there. We changed and freshened up, then drove to Montecito for the dreamiest lunch at Stonehouse restaurant located at San Ysidro Ranch. It felt like stepping into another world – once we arrived, we were surrounded by nothing but greenery, flowers, and storybook cottages, all bathed in sunshine. It was instantly relaxing. Everyone there was so kind, and all of this together made the lunch just feel special (it would be a great spot for a celebration). After we ate, we wandered the grounds and admired the dozens of roses, the small grove of lemon trees, and hummingbirds lingering on other flowers and plants. It was truly an incredible place and a must-see if you are in the area. San Ysidro Ranch is also where John and Jackie Kennedy stayed on their honeymoon in 1953.
After our lunch, we put on swimsuits and went to Butterfly Beach to laze in the sand. The day had grown a bit overcast and chillier this late afternoon, so we laid on our stomachs and soaked up the bits of sun that poked through the clouds.
That night for dinner, we went to Brophy Bros. This is a fun, lively spot right on the harbor with amazing views of both the mountains and ocean. If you like local seafood, I highly recommend dining here. I loved their simple, straightforward menu – all entrées come with a salad, fries, and cole slaw – and they made everything to perfection. H got the swordfish, and I chose the halibut – both caught locally. It was a fabulous meal and way to end the day.
Day 4
Malibu/Santa Monica
We woke up in Santa Barbara to a little June gloom, for which I had been prepared, and felt fortunate for the sunny skies we’d had so far. We decided to have a leisurely breakfast at The Roundhouse in our hotel before leaving. I knew I was really going to miss Santa Barbara.
We gathered our luggage and departed, driving down the famous Pacific Coast Highway, which, even in the misty clouds, was magnificent (and I could imagine just how amazing it would be on a pretty day). We stopped in Malibu for lunch at Malibu Farm Restaurant, a healthy spot with lots of vegan and GF options. We wandered down the pier and saw the more casual Malibu Farm Café as well, and were able to climb to the top of their gift shop for some picturesque views.
We continued our drive back to Los Angeles and returned our rental car, then checked into Oceana Santa Monica, our third and last stay of the trip. Oceana is a suites-only boutique hotel, and in its center, a stunning pool. When we checked in, the staff – who were very nice and attentive throughout our stay – let us know that the pool was undergoing renovations (but was still accessible) and that they were offering daybeds on the beach as an alternative. We let them know we would absolutely be interested in a daybed (how could we resist?!), and went upstairs to get settled. We were upgraded to a room with an ocean view and large windows that we could open for fresh air.
Once at the hotel, we were tired from our drive and comfortable there, so we decided to lounge by the pool (the renovations were no big deal to us), and then we stayed at the hotel for dinner – where a good friend who lives in LA joined us – and ate by a fire table (remember, it cools down at night!). You do have to be a guest to dine at the hotel. It was a nice, chill first night in Santa Monica.
Day 5
Santa Monica/Topanga
We started this day with breakfast by the pool at Oceana (be prepared for big portions!), then got complimentary bikes from the hotel. We rode down the Palisades Park path with ocean and mountain views (similar to the one in Santa Barbara, but up on a cliff from the beach, and busier) to the Santa Monica Pier, which was packed with people but fun to see.
We locked up our bikes and walked across the street to lunch at Ivy at the Shore (make a reservation), which was adorned with colorful flowers and French-inspired decor. There are several sections of the restaurant – sidewalk tables, an interior room, an open-air room, and a back patio. We sat in the open-air space (walls with an open roof). All the California restaurants I saw had some element of outdoor and/or open-air seating. I found this restaurant to be so charming and think it would be fun for a girls brunch.
From lunch, we biked the path back the way we came, passed our hotel, and turned right onto Montana Avenue, a street with lots of shops and cafés. We biked up the hill (breaking a sweat!) and stopped at La La Land Kind Cafe for an iced beverage with an Instagram-turned-real life friend (this is one of the cool things about blogging)! I loved meeting my LA-living IG friend as I drank the delightful la la matcha latte – so good.
After finishing our drinks, H and I biked back down Montana – savoring the downhill ride and wind in our hair – and returned our bikes to the hotel. We sat by the Oceana pool, and I read my book for a solid hour (and finished it – review coming soon).
That night, my other LA friend picked us up and drove us through the cliffs and canyon of Topanga (beware the windy roads), and once again, I felt transported into another world. Suddenly, we were in a serene and secluded-feeling place. We had dinner at Inn of the Seventh Ray, a restaurant in the mountains, donning string lights, and it all felt so magical, I kept saying I felt I was in Lord of the Rings or something! Inn of the Seventh Ray served the best gluten-free bread I’ve ever had; I have no clue how they achieved that perfect chewy texture, and my gluten-eating company agreed. We all very much enjoyed our meals.
Day 6
Santa Monica/LA/Venice
This morning, Oceana had arranged for us to lounge on a beach daybed from 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.! We didn’t really know what to expect but were so excited. Oceana had partnered with The Beach Society to offer this service since their pool area was undergoing renovations, and we felt so lucky to be able to experience it. A car picked us up and drove us right down to Santa Monica’s beach. We got out and spotted our daybed near the water. It was surreal; I felt like we were on an episode of Bachelor in Paradise! There was quite a bit of staring and questions asked from people nearby – but so worth it. We couldn’t stop talking about how amazing it was; they even left us glasses and a pitcher of ice water. My two LA friends came to join and soak up the sun for a few hours. It was a perfect beach day.
All the sun made me work up an appetite! H went back to our hotel, and the girls and I had lunch at Tartine, a popular bakery where I had a salad packed with flavorful greens and herbs (no GF bread here – surprisingly the first place I’d encountered on our trip without it – but they did have a tasty GF muffin!).
After lunch, I hugged my IG friend goodbye – thankful I got to spend a good amount of time with her! – and my other LA friend drove us to the Getty Museum. This is well-worth a visit if you are in LA – very cool architecture, a variety of wonderful art, and unbeatable views of the city, plus a garden, huge fountain, and restaurant. You could spend hours here! Note that once you park you do have to take a short tram ride to and from the museum – and you’ll admire the vistas on the way.
Our final dinner was just H and me. We ventured into Venice – which had a hipper, trendy vibe – for dinner at Gjelina, located on Abbot Kinney, a street with lots of shops and eats. Gjelina offered some really good local food, and they are especially known for their pizza but unfortunately do not serve GF crust (in fact, know that you cannot modify anything on their menu). After dinner, we thought we might walk along Abbot Kinney and even the beach, but quickly realized this was not a good idea! Definitely do not wander around Venice at night; once we got toward the end of Abbot Kinney, it did not feel safe. We hopped in an Uber and went back to our hotel for a final sleep in LA.
We left the next morning from our hotel, and headed to LAX for a direct flight back to Nashville. It was such a fantastic trip; we loved Southern California so much! My favorite area was Santa Barbara; to me, you just can’t beat the scenery and relaxed setting. My favorite hotel was the Waldorf Astoria of Beverly Hills; it’s all so beautiful, and I loved the views. My favorite experience in LA was our daybed on the beach! There is so much to do, eat, and see in Southern California; I know we just scratched the surface, but it was a dreamy trip. Have you traveled here before, or might you someday?
P.S. If you enjoy coastal/beach trips, read about our spring break trip in Miami and the Florida Keys, or our getaway to 30A.
