On Friday, June 7, after our stay in Versailles, we drove around two hours to the beautiful Champagne region of France and enjoyed the loveliest, sunniest weather.
Our first stop was Au Bon Manger in Reims, where we had one of the most special meals of the trip. Reservations are required here; we emailed them and made one for noon, and were seated in the cozy restaurant next to the window and a lovely display of wine and champagne bottles, cookbooks, and the glass case with fresh items to eat. Their small and simple menu included items such as smoked salmon and cheeses and meats accompanied by salad and bread. Along with our first glass of delicious champagne, we sampled quite a bit of their locally-sourced fare, and they even provided gluten-free bread for me. Everything we ate was simply exquisite, and the service was the best we experienced; this is truly a unique and fantastic place to have a relaxing and leisurely lunch.
From there, we drove to Veuve Clicquot for their one-hour Brut Yellow Label tour and tasting. The champagne is aged in medieval chalk crayères (you take a set of long stairs underground to visit), which provide the ideal temperature and humidity for the wine. We learned all about the widow Madame Clicquot and how she created a champagne empire; it was a fascinating and fun tour, and ended with a tasting of their classic label.
After the tour, we walked around the center of Reims, admiring the gorgeous cathedral and other nearby sights.
At 5 p.m., we drove 20 minutes out of Reims and into gorgeous countryside and vineyards where we found the tree-lined road to our magical bed and breakfast in Sermiers, L’Ecrin des Vignes (check-in was 5-7 p.m.).
One of the owners (they were both so kind) showed us upstairs to our bright and spacious room. I had some of the best sleeps here; it was very quiet and peaceful.
We walked around out back to explore the garden, where there were a few sweet tables, including this set for two.
We then discovered a grassy path beside the vineyard that led to a stunning view and paved walking road.
That evening, we had a wonderful dinner with incredible champagne and food plus a spectacular view at Le Bellevue.
The next morning, June 8, was H’s birthday! We started it by driving (a gorgeous drive) 15 minutes to Hautvillers, a quaint little village on a hill, and enjoyed walking through the main street. Can you spot the black cat in the photo above?
We then drove another 10 minutes to Épernay and walked along the Avenue de Champagne, a famous street with many champagne houses. It’s possible to stop and sip along the way, but we simply grabbed a bite to eat before we had a scheduled tour a few minutes off the avenue.
Our tour at Leclerc Briant – a much smaller label – was remarkable. All of their champagne is biodynamic, organic, and vegan. They prioritize the environment as well as producing the highest quality wine possible. One of the most amazing things we learned is they even make wine that ages in the ocean (but unfortunately, it is not available in the United States). We tried a classic white as well as a rosé champagne at the end of the tour; both were superb, our favorites of the trip.
From there, we stopped by the Château Comtesse Lafond; although we were unable to schedule a tour in advance as they were sold out, they do welcome drop-in visitors for tastings on their grounds. This is a newer label, and we tried three of their vintages – all delightful.
The next morning, I woke up in our cozy bed and breakfast with a slight ache in my heart. The only trouble with travel is I tend to fall in love with places that I have to leave. I really loved staying here.
Before departing, on this perfect day, we took one last stroll up the path through the vineyards and soaked up the view.
We returned to Reims where we had a reservation at Harold for a brunch buffet (all you can eat) – it was quite a spread and such fun.
For our final excursion, we did a self-guided tour and tasting at Pommery, a very interesting experience complete with a musical entry (in fact, the song I walked down the aisle to was playing!) and modern art installations at 30 meters below ground. Our send-off was a final glass of crisp champagne, and then we were off to Paris.
P.S. The Versailles & Giverny recap and the London recap. Paris and Amsterdam recaps to come.
