Warm, tropical breezes, palm trees, the calm ocean, fresh cuisine – a dream spring break trip that H and I are grateful to have had after originally planning it in March 2020 and then indefinitely postponing. This past week finally presented the perfect opportunity to have our tropical vacation. We initially had a setback when our flight last Saturday was canceled due to weather. With no flights from Nashville available for several days, we managed to snag two spots on a flight from Atlanta to Miami just one day later. Saturday afternoon, we drove to Atlanta and stayed the night, then flew to Miami on Sunday and arrived in the early afternoon.
Day 1: Sunday
Coral Gables (Miami)
Our first stop was Dora’s, a small gluten-free bakery and bistro that I’d discovered online and wanted to try. I ordered a sandwich to-go so that we could get to The Biltmore – such a gorgeous hotel – and check in. We got settled in our room, which overlooked the pool, and I scarfed down my sandwich, which was absolutely delicious – some of the best GF bread I’ve ever had! We then sat down at Cascade Restaurant, located right by The Biltmore pool, so that H could grab a bite. I was so hungry from traveling that I even got a small salad, which included the freshest tasting lettuce, tomatoes, and avocado, as well as a large glass of refreshing iced tea.
From there, we drove through gorgeous Coral Gables, passing by lush plants and gorgeous blooms. H gave me the tour of his alma mater, the University of Miami, which was special to see. On our way back, we stopped by Books and Books, a very cute bookstore with a distinctive selection and even a café, and walked along the Miracle Mile as well. That evening was a real treat – we enjoyed dinner at Fontana, a lush courtyard restaurant at The Biltmore. We dined on house-made pasta (gluten-free for me) surrounded by palm trees, orchids, and string lights. It was a magical setting and one of the best meals of the trip.
Day 2: Monday
Miami Beach
After waking up and grabbing a smoothie, we ventured to Miami Beach. There was some traffic getting there (took about 35 minutes), and we parked in a garage a few blocks away from the beach since H knew parking could be tricky in the area. H had gotten us day passes at The Confidante, an oceanfront hotel that looked colorful and fun, so that we could use their pool, beach chairs, and other amenities. When we arrived, the pool was absolutely packed, so we headed to the beach. We sat for a moment on their chairs (of which there were plenty available). There was a little sun, but it was very windy and not the most pleasant sitting. We decided to get up and explore.
There is a nice pedestrian walkway that stretches up and down Miami Beach between the beach itself and all the hotels. We wanted to rent bikes via Citi Bike but unfortunately could not find any available after a lengthy search, and decided to just walk the path. It was entertaining to see all the different hotels and the colorful lifeguard towers. It soon got very cloudy, and we hungrily headed for The Backyard poolside restaurant at The Confidante. I was craving a sandwich, and they were able to provide gluten-free bread, which made for a tasty and satisfactory lunch. Despite the wind and clouds, we sat on the beach for a bit as we digested. When we were ready to return to our hotel, we realized the traffic had gotten quite heavy, and it ended up taking us almost an hour to get back to The Biltmore.
Overall, Miami Beach felt a bit chaotic and overwhelming, and was not my favorite, despite all the visually appealing spots. I simply prefer to keep things a little more low-key. It was lovely to return to Coral Gables after the day, and we had an enjoyable dinner that evening with some local friends.
Day 3: Tuesday
Key Largo
When we woke up to pouring rain, the weather in Miami started getting to me. I was ready to leave and drive to the Florida Keys, where it looked warm and sunny! We packed up, said goodbye to The Biltmore, and drove south. As we did so, the sun began to poke through the clouds. A little over an hour later, we arrived to sunshine and heat at Baker’s Cay Resort, which immediately enchanted me with its white and plant-filled modern aesthetic. With ice cold drinks in hand, we had lunch by Coconut Beach at the hotel’s Mexican restaurant, Dry Rocks.
After getting settled into our room (loved the beautiful simplicity of it and the balcony), we grabbed a sunny spot at Hammock Beach – a very quiet, secluded-feeling area with wild trees and limbs, and the expansive water stretching toward the horizon. We both preferred this spot to Coconut Beach, which had more chairs, families, and activities. I felt myself truly decompressing and relaxing as I read my book on tranquil Hammock Beach. H and I enjoyed a refreshing swim in the calm, clear ocean. I stayed lounging on my chair until the late afternoon and was only able to peel myself away when the sun began sinking in the sky. Luckily our room’s view was of Hammock Beach, so it still felt as though we were there when getting ready for dinner.
For dinner, we walked upstairs to the hotel’s open-air restaurant, Calusa, which provided a stunning view of the pastel sunset over the water. H ate the mahi-mahi, and I got the yellowtail snapper; both were divine. I slept like a rock this night. Key Largo and Baker’s Cay were much more my vibe than Miami Beach. I loved the quiet, the wildness of it, and of course, all the plants.
Note: The Keys are not known for their beaches. The beaches at Baker’s Cay were dreamy, but quite small. These are not big wide beaches where you can take walks. This is something to be aware of before visiting any of the Florida Keys!
Day 4: Wednesday
Key West
This morning, we had breakfast at Calusa before getting back on the one-lane road that ends in Key West. Usually, the drive from Key Largo to West should be about two hours, but due to some traffic it took us nearly three. Since there is only one road in and out of the Keys, there is no choice but to sit in and endure the traffic. It is an unusual journey; there’s nothing but water on either side of you (as well as some shops, restaurants, and trees). It’s something to experience!
We arrived in the early afternoon and got checked into The Southernmost House, an adorable historic boutique hotel by the water. The pink house, known as The Mansion, is the main one. We stayed in the yellow house, called The Lopez House, just across the pocket park from the main house. I found them both so charming! We then walked to Blue Heaven, a restaurant that had been recommended to us again and again. It was a low-key, shady spot to cool down and recharge. Their breakfast menu is particularly popular, but we were craving lunch this day. H especially loved his lobster grilled cheese.
On the way back, we toured The Hemingway Home & Museum (cash only for entry), which was remarkable to see. Ernest Hemingway lived in this house in Key West from 1931-1939, during which he wrote the majority of his works in the writing studio. This is a must-see for those who appreciate history, writers and artists, cats (the home is full of cats, some descendants of Hemingway’s six-toed cat), or simply tropical paradises (so many plants).
We changed into our swimsuits back at the hotel and then walked to nearby Higgs Beach, hoping to rent snorkeling gear. When we arrived, a guy told us he was closing up his rental shop (it was nearly 4:30 p.m.), but that he wouldn’t recommend his snorkeling gear anyway. We were disappointed and wandered back toward our hotel, and stopped in a local shop. There was a nice girl inside who sold us some snorkeling gear of our own, and told us that for better snorkeling she really recommended Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park. She kindly gave us all the information we needed, pointing it out on a map and letting us know it would be $7 to park. We thanked her, got in the car, and drove to the state park.
We were not disappointed. The park itself was beautiful to see, with sweeping views of the horizon and boats sailing by, and we were able to park easily and walk over to the beach, which was a bit rocky. We saw a cluster of rocks not too far off the shore and a few people snorkeling by them. We got our gear ready to go, and swam out to the rocks. Then, we took turns snorkeling around the live coral and saw a variety of colorful fish, from parrotfish to butterflyfish. For me, a first-time snorkeler, it was exciting to see, and even a little scary at first! I think next time, I might be ready to go out on a boat.
That evening, we had dinner at our hotel’s restaurant, Seaside Cafe, which had plenty of outdoor seating with views of the ocean and the pool, where I was able to order a gluten-free pizza. If you go here, make sure to be seated before 8:00 p.m., which is when the kitchen closes. After dinner, we explored Duval Street, the main street that stretches all the way across Key West from north to south. There is so much to explore there, from art galleries to shops as well as popular restaurants and bars. It’s a fun place to be if you are in the mood to go out and be social. Before going to bed, we snapped a photo at the Southernmost Point Buoy. There had been a long line to do so during the day, but night presented the perfect opportunity to get a picture with no one around!
Day 5: Thursday
Key West and Coconut Grove (Miami)
The next morning, the notorious roosters woke us up early. If you visit Key West, be prepared to see and hear roosters and hens everywhere – crawling under your table as you eat lunch (which happened numerous times at Blue Heaven) and crowing outside your window at all hours of the day. For this reason, I might recommend staying on a higher floor! We walked across the pocket park for breakfast in the main house of the Southernmost. Before we had to check out, I wanted a chance to sit by the hotel’s pool, and did so with my book. It was a quiet and peaceful hour.
After checking out, we drove to KINO Sandals, which is a shop H wanted to show me where they have been making beautiful and affordable handmade sandals since 1966. H bought me these sandals in pink (the pink is much lighter and softer in person) as an early birthday gift. Before departing, we went to Casa Marina Resort, a luxury hotel that we were curious to see, and decided to have lunch at their Sun Sun Beach Bar & Grill. We were able to sit right away in the shade with a sunny view of their private beach (which is pretty, but quite rocky). I had a super fresh, flavorful salad, and then was sad to say goodbye as we drove away from Key West.
The drive back had less traffic than the way there and felt pretty quick for the most part. It took us about three and a half hours. We got to the Coconut Grove neighborhood in Miami, where we stayed since we were to fly out the next morning. Our last dinner was at Monty’s, a beloved spot of H’s in college with laidback, tropical vibes and a fantastic happy hour. It’s the place to come with friends and hear live music, view all the boats in the harbor, and feast on their raw bar or other casual eats. It was a fun way to conclude our eventful trip!
Recommended For You
If you enjoy cities, tropical plants, shopping, and socializing, I recommend visiting Miami. My favorite area was Coral Gables and meal was at Fontana.
If a slower pace is for you, and you appreciate sustainability, relaxation and rejuvenation, quiet, and tropical waters, I recommend visiting Key Largo, which was my personal favorite place. Bring a good book along.
If you prefer quirkiness and charm, love visiting little shops, and don’t mind being around many tourists, Key West might be the place for you. It’s well worth a visit to Hemingway Home.
Have you visited Miami or the Keys? What were some of your favorite places?
